FJRiders.com

I mentioned a couple near catastrophic wheel bearing failures on our Bushtec trailer in two different ride reports. Discussion about those bearings in those reports could have led to a separate thread.

Well it's time to do something about those puny bearings and here is a thread about it.

Tapered roller bearings would be the best choice but would require more machine work/fabrication than I want to pursue.

The "upgrade" sealed roller bearings that I'm going to try to use come loaded with Chevron RSI-2 grease

https://www.chevronlubricants.com/en_us ... ase-2.html

I'm thinking about replacing the grease with a grease labeled as wheel bearing grease (NLGI-1). The question for you highly educated, SDS reading engineer types is "would you do likewise?"




I sure wish Ray was here for this

I remember Ray saying to check the spacer between the bearings. He had one that was slightly undersized which put lateral pressure on the bearings when tightened. He built a new spacer for his and never had a bearing failure again.

What bearings fit in it? What's the OD, ID, and thickness? I'm sure we can find something that's a better fit for you.

What bearing do you plan to use, currently?

Festus wrote: ↑Wed Dec 08, 2021 10:41 amWhat bearings fit in it? What's the OD, ID, and thickness? I'm sure we can find something that's a better fit for you. What bearing do you plan to use, currently?

1911,

Good thought! Machine bearings are never a custom-fit; everybody uses stock commercial bearings.
A good Timken or SKF guy can probably tell you what you need there, maybe by phone or email.
Keep us posted.

Yeah, a bearing is not a bearing, is not a bearing. Huge differences in them. I'm pretty confident we can determine a bearing that's going to last a LONG LONG time. Might not be a $8 bearing, but it should last a long time.

Probably worth doing the machining and getting rid of the design issue..... if I were recommending grease in this case, I'd use a moly grease (not the off the shelf 3% kind). You could add moly powder to a good wheel bearing grease..... but I'd go the machining route.

Is there a fundamental problem with Bushtec bearings or wheel alignment? Are they especially exposed to environmental conditions (water, grit)? Is it too easy to over-tighten or get them inserted crooked? What crap are they using for OEM bearings?

LOTS of trailers carrying MUCH higher loads go tens of thousands of miles (or more) with no mechanical issues as long as bearings are greased at appropriate intervals. IMO, nothing "special" is needed for grease other than something designated as "waterproof" and specifically meant for bearings.

Always a good idea to check bearings regularly on the road for excess heat - end of the day or at a gas stop. Check that the wheel turns freely, there is no lateral "play", and there is no hint of a grinding noise or "notchy" feel.

First, I'm "subscribed" 'cause I like to learn from the collective wisdom, thanks Duane for starting this thread.

Next, while I know this is coming from out in left field, I thought I'd share what I know about the subject of trailers. My experience comes from boat trailers - specifically saltwater boat trailers. There is no such thing as a "sealed" bearing in the truest sense of the term when you are dunking it in water - especially salt water. Back in the day, an annual re-packing of the trailer bearings was a must.

But the new design for spindles and wheel bearings in this genre is SO much better.

https://www.championtrailers.com/1-3-4- ... r-spindle/

Grease is applied at the center of the spindle, and is forced out of holes at the back of the spindle between the seal and the inner bearing. It can then be used to flush the old dirty water logged grease through both bearings and discarded onto a rag. It's ingenious - my current boat is 12 years old, and (knock wood) I have NEVER taken the bearings down and re-packed them. Every 6 months or so, I just flush out the old grease with new grease.

If a "sealed" roller bearing won't do the trick, I wonder if such a design is available for this?

What's the diameter of the wheel on it so we can determine the RPM's it runs at?

Festus wrote: ↑Wed Dec 08, 2021 2:44 pm What's the diameter of the wheel on it so we can determine the RPM's it runs at?

Bigger than most. 16", according to the website. That's why I was wondering if there was an issue with alignment or something else with the physical setup.

So that's about 1,500 RPM at 70 mph. Should be easy to find a bearing that will thrive in that environment.

So back to Aubruns imput, they are roller bearings with a spacer in between the two bearings. As our dearly departed FJRay stated he has found the spacer to short on his own Bushtec and that will cause premature wear.
Put the new bearings in the wheel and then mount and tighten the nylock bolt then remove the wheel and check to see if that spacer is flopping around between the bearing. If it is you have a problem, not all of us have a lathe at our disposel but can proably source a thin spacer or two take up the slack.
The bearings are the sealed type and as I recall the don't have the best protection for the inside bearing. At least mt old Gen 1 doesn't
Alignment is something you would feel in my opinion, it would always be seeking and you would feel it.
As for finding a better bearing, when you find it post up.

Panman wrote: ↑Wed Dec 08, 2021 4:48 pm Put the new bearings in the wheel and then mount and tighten the nylock bolt then remove the wheel and check to see if that spacer is flopping around between the bearing. If it is you have a problem, not all of us have a lathe at our disposel but can proably source a thin spacer or two take up the slack.

I have a lathe, if you find you need something like that, tell me what to make and I'll make it for you.

Is it a roller bearings or a ball bearing? If ball bearing then why do these fail when our FJR wheel bearings do not?

I suspect the spacer comment is accurate. I have learned to question every spacer when reassembling a wheel. Never found one too long. Occasionally too short. Suspect a gorilla torqued the axle nut so much as to crush the spacer. Some spacers are simple rolled steel and easy to crush but I’ve seen new spacers too short.

Single row ball bearing with rubber shields on both side. Not really a sealed bearing as the rubber shields can be removed.

I don’t think with the bearings being 12 mm wide that it will be wide enough for a tapered bearing. But I could be wrong.

Wow! More interest than I expected.

Had a lot of stuff to show you and a lot of thoughts to bounce off you tonight but work happened.

Osama Been Noddin’ nodded off and tore up 320xxx just right. Not bad enough to dump the whole project off on the body/frame shop, just bad enough to lay some unplanned steering, suspension and zip-tie work on us.

Then 675xxx rolled in and smothered us with that sweet smell of broiled 90 weight that follows when a wheel seal fails and coats a hot brake rotor with diff oil. At least I got to play with some REAL wheel bearings tonight.





It will get better. I’ve got a co-worker named Asher. He’s taking me to meet Fast Frank and his machinist tomorrow.



Nighty night folks

I would want the typical tapered roller bearings with easy lube axles, and it sounds like that may not be doable with that axle, so maybe R&R the axle?
https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Axles.aspx
How wide is axle and what kind of suspension?

This should be of interest:
https://www.astbearings.com/assets/file ... arings.pdf

12mm wide is a 6203? A $6 bearing rated for 2250 pounds dynamic loads, 4 bearings per trailer. $6 each.

Citation below is an open bearing intended to be lubricated by oil not the sealed bearing one should use. Some bearing shops only stock open bearings and separate bearing seals installed with grease on order per customer’s spec. It is a good first look at 12mm wide bearing capabilities. My guess is that a 6203 is a good choice as a trailer wheel bearing. That if one is experiencing failures then something else is wrong. Center spacer? Installer hammered on center race? Hub not machined square?

How does Bushtec stay in business if this is a design deficiency?

Ball Bearing, Open, Trade Number 6203, for 17 mm Shaft Diameter
https://www.mcmaster.com/5972K104