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Clean it up from riding last week. It was getting a little dirty.

I started putting some PR4s on the bike. I still have the front to get on. I won't need it next weekend, as we will be taking the 4wheeler over to GA...maybe surprise Lumberg on the way to the microtel. Maybe get Louanne carsick on Blood Mountain on the way there.

After purchasing a very clean 2005 with 19k miles, I have changed the oil, rear oil, spark plugs, added some heat reflection, flushed front brake fluid and ordered Road 6 GTs. I still have the idle dropping under 1000 probably around 900. It did not stall on me today but it did a twice before. While changing the tires on Tuesday I am going to attempt to bring my idle up. Only concern is the idle being too high when I first start cold. Glad to have another FJR.

wheatonFJR wrote:I started putting some PR4s on the bike. I still have the front to get on. I won't need it next weekend, as we will be taking the 4wheeler over to GA...maybe surprise Lumberg on the way to the microtel. Maybe get Louanne carsick on Blood Mountain on the way there.

I bet Louanne is driving when you get the hotel...

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Oil, filter, and gear oil change as it was still the same from last year running to the west and EOM. Maybe a wash and wax tomorrow. Ready for Georgia launch with BkerChuck this coming Friday at 5AM.

Checked the valves today. Time to remove the intake camshaft. Any tips are appreciated.

fontanaman wrote: ↑Sat Jun 04, 2022 9:00 pm Checked the valves today. Time to remove the intake camshaft. Any tips are appreciated.

How many valves are off? How many miles?
Zip tie the chain to the sprocket and make alignment marks on the inside of the sprocket - the factory marks on the outside are difficult to line up.
If you are making adjustments, set ALL intakes to 2/3 of the max clearance and it will be a very long time before they need to be done again.
Camshaft does not have to be removed. Remove the caps and you can just lay it aside on an angle to access shims.
Be CAREFUL about keeping the chain from slipping a tooth on the bottom end.
Note: Buckets may not be identical so keep them in order as they are removed.
I have sanded shims (carbide paper) to get the right thickness when I couldn't get the right ones from the dealer quickly. Worked well. A digital caliper worked well for me to check thickness although a micrometer is more accurate.
Don't forget to back off the CCT before removing the cam - I did that once.
Put it into 5th and use the rear wheel to advance the engine instead of a socket wrench.
Check clearances and timing at least three times before you button it up.
Do you have Yamafitter's excellent valve clearance Excel spreadsheet application? Useful for calculating replacement shims and for keeping a record.
Don't f@$k it up!
Good luck!

extrememarine wrote: ↑Sat Jun 04, 2022 7:22 pm

wheatonFJR wrote:I started putting some PR4s on the bike. I still have the front to get on. I won't need it next weekend, as we will be taking the 4wheeler over to GA...maybe surprise Lumberg on the way to the microtel. Maybe get Louanne carsick on Blood Mountain on the way there.

I bet Louanne is driving when you get the hotel...

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Oh ye of little faith...If I'm not driving, its cuz I stopped at a buddy's house and was imbibing.

Atrious wrote: ↑Sat Jun 04, 2022 7:20 pm After purchasing a very clean 2005 with 19k miles, I have changed the oil, rear oil, spark plugs, added some heat reflection, flushed front brake fluid and ordered Road 6 GTs. I still have the idle dropping under 1000 probably around 900. It did not stall on me today but it did a twice before. While changing the tires on Tuesday I am going to attempt to bring my idle up. Only concern is the idle being too high when I first start cold. Glad to have another FJR.

Don't worry about the cold (start-up) engine speed. That will take care of itself. Set the hot idle to 1100-1200 rpm and you and the bike will be much happier.

Good luck!

~G

Set timing marks to #1 TDC, zip tie at crank sprocket, zip tie in each cam sprocket at 12:00. Remove bolt (10mm head) at end of cam chain tensioner, have a magnet handy in case you drop it.... now insert screwdriver through slot in frame and turn CCT clockwise to retract it. It won't lock in place, I usually leave screwdriver in and clamp on a pair of vice grips to hold the screwdriver in place.
Undo cam bearing caps undoing in increments evenly. Once off, roll cam up and over towards the exhaust cam to expose the buckets you want to remove to swap shims. Your option to reshim everything to 70% of max or just the ones of concern. Install is the reverse.
Usually only on the exhaust cam, but if you have difficulty removing the cam, may need to rotate crankshaft sprocket a degree or two to get more chain slack... intake side has all the slack, so shouldn't be an issue.
Once reinstalled, verify timing marks, put crankshaft sprocket back on the timing mark, verify the vertical lines on the right end of #3 cam cap are in line with the "dot" on each #4 cam lobe. Just a verification valve timing is still intact, it should be because of the zip ties...... if OK, release the CCT. now you can cut and remove all the zip ties.
Recheck all valve clearances you changed, rotate the engine a couple of times, then start your re-check.
Verify all cam cap bolts are snugged up to torque...... all good, you can button it all back up.
I rotate the engine with a 14mm socket on the crankshaft bolt.

FJRoss wrote: ↑Sat Jun 04, 2022 9:28 pm

fontanaman wrote: ↑Sat Jun 04, 2022 9:00 pm Checked the valves today. Time to remove the intake camshaft. Any tips are appreciated.

How many valves are off? How many miles?

Do you have Yamafitter's excellent valve clearance Excel spreadsheet application? Useful for calculating replacement shims and for keeping a record.
Don't f@$k it up!
Good luck!

45,000 miles. First time a valve adjustment is required.

Left to right intakes are 7, 6.5, 6.5, 6.5, 6, 5.5 or a tight 6, 7 and 7. It be nice to change out all of the darn intake shims to get them to 8 thousands if possible. I don't want to mess with this again.

No I don't have Yamafitter's spreadsheet. Please send it.

At this point I have two wire ties at the crankcase end. I have not release the CCT. I have to verify the engine is at TDC for #1 cylinder and wire tie the chain the camshaft sprockets. No hurry as I don't have shims on had. So I got two days to pull the intake cam, pull the existing shims and determine what new shims are needed.

I figure it is better to ask for suggestions before "going in" than to mess up and beg for help later!

Thanks!

Rotate the motor clockwise by hand after done. Good advice by Ray.

Before



During







After

Starting current still seems a bit high? Vast improvement, though.
(Did you replace or refurbish?)

Cramp-buster AND Throttlemeister?

Reminds me of posts back in the day where guys with Gen1's found oily brushes and comms..... took apart my '06 project bike's starter (90k miles) and it was clean... I can only guess oil can migrate up the teeth that engage the starter clutch and get past the seal......

Rode from Cranbrook over/thru the mountains to Grand Forks BC...
White knuckle ride for sure... cold and rainy.
Now onwards to Okanagan Falls... Chill for a few days then head back to Onterrible.

Hack wrote: ↑Sun Jun 05, 2022 2:35 pm Rode from Cranbrook over/thru the mountains to Grand Forks BC...
White knuckle ride for sure... cold and rainy.
Now onwards to Okanagan Falls... Chill for a few days then head back to Onterrible.

Make me said your ride was cold and rainy. It is been a record setting cool and wet spring along the west coast from central Oregon northward. Safe travels.

Took a couple of short rides on my local loop to test my adjustments. Been trying to dial in my suspension settings after my Traxxion Fork Spring upgrade. Checked the sag, readjusted the preload, reset the rebound and compression damping. Feels pretty good but may not be the final setup. Gonna live with this for awhile then see what happens. Not a lot to be done with the OE rear shock. Still debating, gen III, after market or live with what I got for awhile longer.

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