FJRiders.com

I must be antisocial, because nothing about a lot of people interests me in the very least.

EOM is the only time I’m around a large, to me, group.

Sad about the 70 yr old.

Yea, that's WAY too peopley for me to go anywhere near there. I was never really a party guy. FJR meets are pushing it for my social interaction.

Washed "BB" this morning. My new pressure washer and foam cannon work really good!

Washed it, which is the first time this year I think. Since I decided to ride rain or shine, mostly to work, not much sense in constantly washing it.

Rode it about 400 KM, mostly on uncharted land (for me). I never grow weary of the excitment of riding new land.

Ride report forthcoming.

As a part of the post-Alaska trip maintenance, I'm swapping out the rear ADV tire and going back to my tried and true Michelin Road 6 GTs. Front Conti TK70 still has some life in it, so I'll swap that a little later.



Hoping to pull all the tupperware this weekend to clean the calcium chloride out of all the nooks and crannies if the weather cooperates. May also need to do some buffing to bring back her shine, as the clearcoat took a beating up there.

What kind of mileage did you get out of the Conti rear?

Hppants wrote: ↑Fri Aug 08, 2025 12:16 pm What kind of mileage did you get out of the Conti rear?

It's right at 5k miles as of that picture. Those were hard miles with a lot of crappy/unpaved roads, and even the paved sections were fully loaded with all my camping gear and often running at extra-legal speeds. Overall I was very happy with the performance and the mileage for tooling around the wilder areas of Alaska/Yukon/BC. Would recommend it without hesitation.

For reference, I got 9k miles out of my last Road 6 GT rear, and probably could have done another 500 or so.

wgharper wrote: ↑Fri Aug 08, 2025 12:00 pm <<snip>>Hoping to pull all the tupperware this weekend to clean the calcium chloride out of all the nooks and crannies if the weather cooperates. May also need to do some buffing to bring back her shine, as the clearcoat took a beating up there.

DAMHIK...Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you'll be digging calcium chloride out of the bike for the next two years! It is horrible stuff and gets everywhere. I'm still finding pockets of it on my Tenere after last years Dalton trip.

Loving your ride report, good luck with cleaning!

~G

I started getting the somewhat-common "spongy rear brake pedal" syndrome, with lots of rear pedal travel, and the occasional flashing ABS light. So I checked the rear pads (which are fine), and started bleeding the brakes and cleaning/lubing the ABS sensors/holes last night. I installed speed bleeders a few years ago, so the bleeding process is going mostly fine... but the right-front lower bleeder doesn't seem to be working. I loosen it A LOT, and I can't get any fluid out through the bleeder. When I resume tonight after work, I'll probably just have to remove the speed bleeder to check for blockage. Then do a more thorough bleed to get rid of all the air that will undoubtedly get into the system.

So far, what's come out of the first two speed bleeder nipples (front left, and front-right upper) has been crystal clear, so I wouldn't know why there would be a blockage on the front-right lower nipple. We'll see.

FJRMaverick wrote: ↑Mon Aug 11, 2025 12:14 pm ... but the right-front lower bleeder doesn't seem to be working. I loosen it A LOT, and I can't get any fluid out through the bleeder.

I assume that you are using the rear brake pedal to move fluid through the lower right front? It is in no way connected to the front brake circuit.
(If you are aware of this, then please ignore.)
Note: The lower front should be done before the rear caliper...

FJR rear brakes get soft annually. It is what it is. Happened on my 09 and happens on 17. If you know this then please disregard.

Get a new standard blead screw, blead the front and rear brakes.

FJRoss wrote: ↑Mon Aug 11, 2025 12:30 pm

FJRMaverick wrote: ↑Mon Aug 11, 2025 12:14 pm ... but the right-front lower bleeder doesn't seem to be working. I loosen it A LOT, and I can't get any fluid out through the bleeder.

I assume that you are using the rear brake pedal to move fluid through the lower right front? It is in no way connected to the front brake circuit.
(If you are aware of this, then please ignore.)
Note: The lower front should be done before the rear caliper...

THAT'S RIGHT!! D'OH! I knew that at one time (I've replaced all the lines), but somehow that completely escaped me last night. I was indeed squeezing the front brake lever and expecting brake fluid. Thank you for the respectful correction!

Man I love it when problems are easily fixed!

It's good once in a while to rubber band the front brake lever, and hang a weight on the rear brake pedal overnight. Does wonders.

escapefjrtist wrote: ↑Fri Aug 08, 2025 9:36 pm

wgharper wrote: ↑Fri Aug 08, 2025 12:00 pm <<snip>>Hoping to pull all the tupperware this weekend to clean the calcium chloride out of all the nooks and crannies if the weather cooperates. May also need to do some buffing to bring back her shine, as the clearcoat took a beating up there.

DAMHIK...Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you'll be digging calcium chloride out of the bike for the next two years! It is horrible stuff and gets everywhere. I'm still finding pockets of it on my Tenere after last years Dalton trip.

Loving your ride report, good luck with cleaning!

~G

Ended up having to use a vinegar and water soak to get a lot of it out of the clearcoat and off the plastics (so yes, I douched my bike), but after a few rounds of soaking/scrubbing and a little buffing I'm pretty happy with the outcome. I think it also helped that I washed the bike three times on the trip after major dirt accumulation, so the buildup wasn't too bad.

FJRMaverick wrote: ↑Mon Aug 11, 2025 12:14 pm I installed speed bleeders a few years ago, so the bleeding process is going mostly fine... but the right-front lower bleeder doesn't seem to be working.

The problem with speed bleeders (and pedal pumping in general) is when the pedal lifts a vacuum is formed. Often allows an air bubble to move right back into the same place it has been hiding all along.

Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive brake bleeding kit which attaches to an air compressor. Needs a fairly big one as it uses air over a venturi to form a vacuum. A constant vacuum on the bleeder keeps the fluid moving once it has started. One must watch closely to keep the reservoir from being sucked dry.

I often pump the pedal/lever while my HF bleeder is sucking on the bleeder valve. Moves fluid a bit faster.

N4HHE wrote: ↑Tue Aug 12, 2025 11:05 pm

FJRMaverick wrote: ↑Mon Aug 11, 2025 12:14 pm I installed speed bleeders a few years ago, so the bleeding process is going mostly fine... but the right-front lower bleeder doesn't seem to be working.

The problem with speed bleeders (and pedal pumping in general) is when the pedal lifts a vacuum is formed. Often allows an air bubble to move right back into the same place it has been hiding all along.

Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive brake bleeding kit which attaches to an air compressor. Needs a fairly big one as it uses air over a venturi to form a vacuum. A constant vacuum on the bleeder keeps the fluid moving once it has started. One must watch closely to keep the reservoir from being sucked dry.

I often pump the pedal/lever while my HF bleeder is sucking on the bleeder valve. Moves fluid a bit faster.

I have one of these, but find it difficult because it seems to pull air in through the threads of the bleeder. They are great for replacing fluid, as they can quickly suck out the old fluid from the MC without a mess, as well as pull fluid through quickly. They are especially nice for doing an auto or truck, where there is a lot of fluid to move.

I have never felt the need for a vacuum bleeder setup or speed bleeders for use on a motorcycle. I haven't ever had any problem getting any air bubbles out with the squeeze-open bleeder-complete stroke-close bleeder-gently release lever-repeat process. Even for a car, you can use a hose with an in-line check valve to connect with the regular bleeder screw instead of installing four speed bleeders.

N4HHE wrote: ↑Tue Aug 12, 2025 11:05 pm

FJRMaverick wrote: ↑Mon Aug 11, 2025 12:14 pm I installed speed bleeders a few years ago, so the bleeding process is going mostly fine... but the right-front lower bleeder doesn't seem to be working.

The problem with speed bleeders (and pedal pumping in general) is when the pedal lifts a vacuum is formed. Often allows an air bubble to move right back into the same place it has been hiding all along.

Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive brake bleeding kit which attaches to an air compressor. Needs a fairly big one as it uses air over a venturi to form a vacuum. A constant vacuum on the bleeder keeps the fluid moving once it has started. One must watch closely to keep the reservoir from being sucked dry.

I often pump the pedal/lever while my HF bleeder is sucking on the bleeder valve. Moves fluid a bit faster.

I have this HF bleeding kit and am now wondering if my issues with it are due to my pancake compressor not being up to the task. Might try the suggestion to pump the lever with the vac pulling to see if that works. #themoreyouknow