Well, there might have been a little self care involved...
The last 20 miles, in the failing light of dust, at pace along that secton of OH78 - best damn therapy on the planet. And boy did I need it. Wow - today felt so good...
extrememarine wrote: ↑Wed Oct 02, 2024 9:18 pm
I rode OH555 and OH78 for Wheaton and Festus this afternoon. It was almos dusk, plenty of deer staring at me on the way into Caldwell...
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You effn liar. You didn't ride it for me, you rode it for yourself...and to watch the little bambis run for their lives in your headlights. Bad Marine, mean to the poor bambis.
fontanaman wrote: ↑Wed Oct 02, 2024 9:44 pm
Yesterday I road with the local BMW group. We took a nice route to Clarkston Washington for lunch at Roosters along the Snake River.
Here are a few photos from the ride.
Descending to the Snake River.
Along the Snake River.
During the ride the ABS lamp lit up twice. Tapping the brakes turn the ABS lamp off.
So today I removed the front and rear wheels and clean the ABS Sensor rotor and the sensor. Next I replaced the neutral switch assembly.
I removed the front brake caliper pin. When I installed it the hex key turned before the torque wrench clicked. Nuts. So now the caliper pin hex is no longer a hex. I will take the blame but it is time to get a better set of hex sockets. Anybody have a set they really like?
As I don't have the skill or tools to removed the caliper pin I called the local dealer to get the job done. I have and appointment on October 19th to get the thing fixed. I don't mind to get professional help as needed. I have saved thousand of dollars doing my own work and if once in a while I need to pay to get something fixed I am good with that.
Tomorrow I will ride the FJR to see if cleaning up the Sensor rotor and sensor fixed the ABS lamp problem.
Great pics. Should be able to tap in a torx socket that is just larger than the rounded out hex. Should give enough bite to remove the pin. Not that much torque on it. Then just get a new pin. Having the BMWs, everything is torx, and I get it. They are much more robust than hex heads.
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I spent most of my money on guns, motorcycles, women, and whiskey. The rest I just wasted!
Toter wrote: ↑Wed Oct 02, 2024 11:00 pm
Great pics. Should be able to tap in a torx socket that is just larger than the rounded out hex. Should give enough bite to remove the pin. Not that much torque on it. Then just get a new pin. Having the BMWs, everything is torx, and I get it. They are much more robust than hex heads.
Mr Toter is brilliant. I tapped in a torx socket and was able to remove the pin. Now I have see if a local dealer has a pin as I want to ride the Yamaha tomorrow. Thanks very much Toter!
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Searching for roads paved with Asphalt, unless I am riding the mighty DR650 bushpig.
fontanaman wrote: ↑Wed Oct 02, 2024 9:44 pm
I removed the front brake caliper pin. When I installed it the hex key turned before the torque wrench clicked. Nuts. So now the caliper pin hex is no longer a hex. I will take the blame but it is time to get a better set of hex sockets. Anybody have a set they really like?
As I don't have the skill or tools to removed the caliper pin I called the local dealer to get the job done. I have and appointment on October 19th to get the thing fixed. I don't mind to get professional help as needed. I have saved thousand of dollars doing my own work and if once in a while I need to pay to get something fixed I am good with that.
Tomorrow I will ride the FJR to see if cleaning up the Sensor rotor and sensor fixed the ABS lamp problem.
I did that ride a month ago after acquiring yet another FJR in a Missoula, MT Fly-n-Ride. Good stuff! Lolo Pass, Rattlesnake Grade......
I don't think it's your hex sockets. It's the shitty caliper pin bolt! I've rounded 3 of those mofos in the last few years! Do yourself a favor and get a bolt extractor set. Works well in this application and you'll have it for anything else that might come along.
Then, be like me and follow Guru Ray's advice and get the Honda equivalent bolt!!!! It's an outie instead of an innie and waaay cheaper than the outrageous sum Yamaha wants for those bolts - iirc, $40 each? And that's without the little rubber O-ring at the end. From now on whenever I take one out I will replace with the half dozen Honda equivalents I bought.
Toter wrote: ↑Wed Oct 02, 2024 11:00 pm
Great pics. Should be able to tap in a torx socket that is just larger than the rounded out hex. Should give enough bite to remove the pin. Not that much torque on it. Then just get a new pin. Having the BMWs, everything is torx, and I get it. They are much more robust than hex heads.
Mr Toter is brilliant. I tapped in a torx socket and was able to remove the pin. Now I have see if a local dealer has a pin as I want to ride the Yamaha tomorrow. Thanks very much Toter!
That is awesome that worked. I tried that on the last two I rounded out. No-go. Despite several attempts. But fortunately, the extractor set worked.
Growing old is mandatory. Growing up is optional.
IBA #327
'04 FJR (X2) -- '09 FJR (X2) -- '13 FJR (X3) -- '14 FJR ES -- '17 FJR ES -- '23 FJR ES -- '14 BMW GSA What can I say? I have issues!
Rode mine to work. It really needs washed. Coming home from EOM we were in rain for about 200 miles and it's been raining daily in my area ever since so I haven't had the chance to properly wash it yet.
What happens is the chamfered surface of the caliper pin seizes itself onto the aluminum caliper due to bi-metal reaction. Common issue... converting to the Honda pins works. You could put a wee bit of anti-seize on the chamfer, but I've found limited success.
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Keep yer stick on the ice........... (Red Green)
Duct tape can't fix stupid, but it can sure muffle the sound.
Toter wrote: ↑Wed Oct 02, 2024 7:20 pm
Damn troublesome Japanese crap. Trade it for half a good BMW. Know where there's a cherry, 21 R1250GS Rallye.
Ahh yes, the time honored tradition of trading a 99% good FJR for a 50% good BMW.
fontanaman wrote: ↑Wed Oct 02, 2024 9:44 pm
During the ride the ABS lamp lit up twice. Tapping the brakes turn the ABS lamp off.
I didn't see in your troubleshooting that you checked for a sticky rear brake lever. Might be worth a look. Seems I remember some folks having this issue when it doesn't fully return.
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YouTube Channel | My Blog Current Bikes:2007 Yamaha FJR1300AE | 2016 KTM 1190 Adventure R | 2001 Suzuki DRZ-400E | 2020 KTM 500 XCF-W Son's Bike:2019 Honda CRF250L
I'm here to serve as an example of what NOT to do.
One cannot discount the allure of the Barvarian Sirens. So far, I'm good, but I make no bones. The RS is such a sexy sport touring motorcycle. And it rides just like it looks.
Toter loved this
"I guess it comes down to a simple choice, really. Get busy living. Or get busy dying."
- Andy Dufresne, Shawshank Redemption
Hppants wrote: ↑Thu Oct 03, 2024 9:20 am
One cannot discount the allure of the Barvarian Sirens. So far, I'm good, but I make no bones. The RS is such a sexy sport touring motorcycle. And it rides just like it looks.
Resist! Resist! Or you could become a Bavarian version of SkooterG! No, he's uniquely afflicted, but, very, very badly!
wheatonFJR, Hppants, FJRPittsburgh and 1 others loved this
I spent most of my money on guns, motorcycles, women, and whiskey. The rest I just wasted!
SkooterG wrote: ↑Thu Oct 03, 2024 1:09 am
I did that ride a month ago after acquiring yet another FJR in a Missoula, MT Fly-n-Ride. Good stuff! Lolo Pass, Rattlesnake Grade......
I don't think it's your hex sockets. It's the shitty caliper pin bolt! I've rounded 3 of those mofos in the last few years! Do yourself a favor and get a bolt extractor set. Works well in this application and you'll have it for anything else that might come along.
Then, be like me and follow Guru Ray's advice and get the Honda equivalent bolt!!!! It's an outie instead of an innie and waaay cheaper than the outrageous sum Yamaha wants for those bolts - iirc, $40 each? And that's without the little rubber O-ring at the end. From now on whenever I take one out I will replace with the half dozen Honda equivalents I bought.
My hex set has seen better days. I watched Project Farm then ordered a new set.
The Honda replacement bolt is a great idea. Is the rubber o-ring not needed or do you just use the o-ring on the Yamaha branded pin? Answer no seee Ray's Tech Tip below.
The brake pedal is not sticking.
PS after first posting I found Ray's Tech Tip post on the brake pin.
Thanks all!
Searching for roads paved with Asphalt, unless I am riding the mighty DR650 bushpig.
fontanaman wrote: ↑Wed Oct 02, 2024 9:44 pm
During the ride the ABS lamp lit up twice. Tapping the brakes turn the ABS lamp off.
I didn't see in your troubleshooting that you checked for a sticky rear brake lever. Might be worth a look. Seems I remember some folks having this issue when it doesn't fully return.
My issue was pervasive and hard to track down. It eventually came back to electrical gremlins stemming from the PIIA horn. Design Flaw looked at it while at a tech day and did some fixing. Something with the trigger wire and making sure it did not back feed somehow. Have not had the same issue since. (knocks on wood)
Maybe this will help.
Yes, tapping on both the brake lever and pedal at the same time would clear it. The light would often come back on in a few min. There was no affect on the ABS system. I tested it a few times in gravel to be sure and once tested it accidentally on some wet pavement. The light had no negative result other than being lit on the dash.
I often have found myself when I was not looking, nor did that discovery take place where I thought it would!
Yesterday I removed the front and rear wheels to clean the ABS brake rotor sensor and sensor. I also installed a neutral sending unit.
I reached the end of the block during a test ride today. The ABS, TCS and check engine lamps were all on. I restarted the bike twice with the same result.
Turns out I failed to install the rear brake sensor. Once that was installed only the check engine light was on. Presently I am at Westside Racing where they kindly agreed to clear the check engine light.
Next is a test ride to see if cleaning the eliminated the ABS light from blinking occasionally.
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Searching for roads paved with Asphalt, unless I am riding the mighty DR650 bushpig.
extrememarine wrote: ↑Thu Oct 03, 2024 6:08 pm
For Wheaton.
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That IS one fine road.
I remember riding it for the first time in the late2000s. Downhill. Leading the conga line. Go over a rise, and the road is all of a sudden over THERE.
Its a beautiful road. I will always have good memories there.
After getting the check engine light reset at Westside Racing I set off to test if cleaning the ABS sensors would eliminate the ABS light from coming on occasionally. As the ABS light would come on only when the brakes were operated I headed out to Cheney Washington where I could safely ride around town to sample many of the stops signs. Eventually I decided to head home and go for a bicycle ride to enjoy this wonderful fall day in Spokane Washington.
More testing is required. Ah shucks, but I am confident the ABS lamp flashing problem is solved.
The service advisor at Westside Racing said all faults found where due to not installing the sensor. They did not find faults due to the ABS light blinking. Interesting.
Searching for roads paved with Asphalt, unless I am riding the mighty DR650 bushpig.
It's always something simple. And for me anyway, it's usually tied to something I did or didn't do. Honestly, I'm not gonna lie: THIS is a big reason why I continue to ride the FJR. I'm not sure if it's because I have 13 years of experience with the bike, or because it's innately that reliable and easy to fix, or perhaps a combination of both.
Glad it's fixed, regardless.
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"I guess it comes down to a simple choice, really. Get busy living. Or get busy dying."
- Andy Dufresne, Shawshank Redemption